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Rock climbing on federal land could change due to removing anchors and bolts required for routes in national parks.
In a recent development, the U.S. National Park Service and the U.S. Forest Service proposed a policy that could significantly alter the landscape of rock climbing in America. The policy regards climbing bolts and anchors as "permanent installations," which are prohibited under the Wilderness Act of 1964. This announcement has raised concerns among the climbing community, fearing that this could jeopardize climbing routes nationwide, including prominent ones at Yosemite's El Capitan and Rocky Mountain National Park's Longs Peak.
Erik Murdock, the interim executive director of the Access Fund, explained that under this policy, climbing routes with fixed anchors, which have been permissible for six decades, would require federal approval, similar to that for constructing garbage dumps or fence lines. Murdock described the proposal as a potential "paradigm shift," posing a continuous challenge for climbers to defend their beloved climbing areas. He highlighted the risk of climbing routes being removed at the discretion of future park superintendents.
Several outdoor recreation groups, including the American Alpine Club, the American Mountain Guides Association, the Outdoor Industry Association, USA Climbing, and the Outdoor Alliance, have expressed opposition to the proposal.
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The proposal isn't entirely negative for climbers, as it recognizes climbing as an acceptable use of national lands. However, it also mandates that all fixed anchors undergo a federal review to assess their necessity and impact on the wilderness. Bryon Harvison, policy and government affairs director at the American Alpine Club, raised concerns about the feasibility and resource implications of this extensive review process.
Jason D. Martin, executive director of the American Alpine Institute, pointed out that fixed anchors serve purposes beyond climbing. They are crucial for search-and-rescue operations and canyoneering activities. He stressed that the impact of these anchors on the environment, in comparison to other factors like trails, is minimal.
This debate emerges as climbing groups are actively lobbying for legislation to protect climbing interests, including the Protecting America's Rock Climbing Act and the America's Outdoor Recreation Act. The first bill recently received unanimous approval from a House committee, signaling congressional support for rock climbing.
Murdock contrasts the proposed federal policy with the last 60 years of climbing management in wilderness areas, which has been more accommodating. As stakeholders and enthusiasts brace for a potential shift in climbing access and management, a 60-day comment period for public input on the federal proposal has begun.
What do you think of this proposal? Let me know in the comments!
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