Once upon a time - a few years into our travel journey - we made a pact that we would never revisit a place - the world was too big after all and there would never be enough time. That was in Lazise in northern Italy after a fab six week road trip. …
Once upon a time - a few years into our travel journey - we made a pact that we would never revisit a place - the world was too big after all and there would never be enough time. That was in Lazise in northern Italy after a fab six week road trip. Anyway, the following year, a road trip in Germany was aborted midway due to non stop rain (I mean - we're Irish - do we NEED rain on vacation???) and we crossed the Alps, eventually ending up in Lazise, in the exact same campsite. And the moral is........
So this time last year, we enjoyed a mini road trip in southern Morocco, including the town of Taroudant where we intended walking the entirety of its spectacular walls. However, we got waylaid in the gardens of our guesthouse (more about that later) and lingered all afternoon, avowing an early rise the following morning to complete the route before moving on. But then, of course, there was the leisurely breakfast to be savoured, another quick dip in the pool to be enjoyed and, before we knew it, we were back on the road, waving bye bye to the walls as we left town.
And, as life works out sometimes, here we were in February, booking cheap Ryanair flights to Morocco with no firm plan beyond arriving in to Agadir.
That's it! We'll go back to Taroudant for TWO nights - and then we'll definitely do the walk!
And that's what we did!!
With its strategic location between two mountain ranges, you can see why Taroudant was chosen as its capital by the Saadian dynasty in the 16th century. From here, they could attack the invading Spanish and Portuguese armies on the Atlantic coast. To defend their capital, a huge wall was built around the city.
Let's get the stats out of the way!!!.....
Standing 8-10m in height and up to 4m in thickness, boasting 130 towers, 19 bastions and over 100 crenels, the pentagonal wall stretched some 8 km around the city which was accessed through 5 gates (more were added over the years). It is the oldest wall in Morocco and the third most robust in the world, after the Great Wall of China and the Kumbhalgarh Fort in India!
Today, one's immediate impression is that of a surprisingly intact structure. Of course, some parts are in better repair than others, and maintenance seems to be restricted to the side of town most frequented by visitors.
They say one should walk the walls later in the day - when the evening light enhances the rich colours.....
....but sure who listens to advice!!!! No - we're heading off after breakfast, allowing for a few hours walk and back for a leisurely afternoon.
We'll start around Bab El Kasbah which would have been the main gate - this is where the sultan and dignitaries would have accessed the city through its triple arches...
Last year, we could access a terrace above the gate and admire the immediate city and the Atlas Mountains in the distance. The steps are blocked at the moment ( know the city was damaged during the 6.8 mag earthquake in Sept 2023).
The first few kms, which are closest to the main gate and major access roads, are presented as wide avenues with palm trees, lighting, parks and seating. The walls are well maintained and VERY impressive.
The landscape becomes less refined as we walk along.... (but I liked that)
It's practically impossible to maintain the whole thing.....
To be fair - there's only SO much adobe wall one can admire!!!
There are few distractions as we walk along - usually a bit of action around the gates.....
.....and the odd passerby.......
Heat became a major factor and the last km or two were hard going. The terrain is very easy - flat all the way - but there is NO shade and after a couple of hours, with temperatures heading towards the mid 30's, we were glad to pass through the gate and into the shadowy streets of the enclosed city!
Inside the Walls
Taroudant certainly prospered under the Saadians, trading in sugar, cotton, indigo and rice. As well as their defensive function, the gates served as checkpoints for visitors and traders - taxes would have been collected from those wishing to do business in the city. When the Saadians moved their capital to Marrakech, Taroudant was left to serve as a commercial centre for the surrounding Berber population.
You'll find the rather modest entrance in the Kasbah.
Just wait 'til you see inside!
Then there's the upper deck.... with lots more shady nooks and great views of the Kasbah walls which are right beside us...
Bedrooms vary is size - some are small but all are lovely. A few have patios opening directly onto the pool..
(Our standard double -room only rate - 690DH / €64 per night)
Parts of the garden are laid out for dining (although you can also eat indoors)
The attention to detail, so evident in the modest sized garden, extends to catering...
The Welcome Mint Tea and Cookies upon arrival....
Breakfast is buffet style service with eggs made to order.....
....while lunch and dinner are ordered in advance ( I don't know if that's a Ramadan thing or year round). The website mentions a full board option but it's not available.
Now you understand why we didn't bother walking the walls last year - how could you leave this place!!
Delighted to be back!!!
Getting There
I set out to write this as a day trip option from Agadir - It's just about 80kms in distance and the two cities are linked by bus as well as tour options. But Taroudant is a lovely place in the evening - its nice to wander out to the walls after dinner or go in to Place Assarag for a nightcap.
If, like us, you rent a car, its an easy drive - less than 90 minutes from Agadir - and it can work very well into a road trip in that part of the country.
No comments:
Post a Comment