Wow, where to begin with Kenya. The five weeks I spent backpacking through Kenya have led to some of the grandest adventures I've been on to date, but let me tell ya. It wil come with its fair share of challenges and frustrations. I've dealt with damn near eveyrthing imaginable during my travels, but there were times when Kenya left me feeling like one of her newborn giraffes awkwardly finding its footing for the first time. Getting dropped off in the throes of Accra Road's matatu stage was one hell of a welcome to the country. Once I got used to how Kenya operated, though, I could not get enough of the country.
Kenya is a great starting point for a backpacking trip in East Africa, and a perfect introduction to Sub-Saharan Africa in general. I mean, it's also an excellent stand-alone destination, with its diverse destinations and cultures being more than enough to fill you up with months worth of adventure. While traveling Kenya wasn't always easy, it has a solid infrastructure for tourism and plenty of incredible destinations, both well-known and off-the-beaten-path.
Here is everything you need to know before visiting Kenya.
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Table of Contents
Things To Know Before Going to Kenya
Do You Need a Visa To Visit Kenya?
Although most countries won't need a visa to enter Kenya, you will need to fill out an electronic travel authorization form before arriving. It can be filled out online and it costs about $35. Mine was processed almost immediately, although I'd recommend filling it out around a week before landing into the country. I didn't have to show anything to immigration upon arrival, but have a screenshot or printed copy of it just in case.
If you plan on visiting other East African countries, I would recommend looking into the East African Tourist visa. It will allow you to visit Kenya, Uganda, and Rwanda. The price is $100, which works out to be cheaper than getting a visa for each individual country.
Required Vaccines For Kenya
Whether you need to show any vaccine certificates when arriving in Kenya depends on what country you're arriving from. For example, I did not need the Yellow Fever vaccine to enter Kenya from the United States, but if I came back to Kenya from Uganda, I would need to show the vaccine certificate. I'd recommend getting the required vaccines if you plan on backpacking East Africa or other African countries. You can get the yellow fever vaccineat Nairobi's City Hall. Certain border crossings and airports will also allow you to get the vaccine on arrival.
The COVID vaccine is not necessary to enter Kenya anymore. For the updated requirements, here's Kenya's Ministry of Health's website.
When Is The Best Time of Year To Visit Kenya?
Kenya has a dry season, a short rainy season, and a long rainy season. Each one has their advantages, although most people will visit during the dry season from June to October. This is also when the Great Migration takes place, often referred to as the Eighth Wonder of the Natural World. For wildlife enthusiasts, this will be the best time to visit. However, prices are also much more expensive during this time, and you'll be dealing with much larger crowds than the low season.
November and December make up the short rainy season, before the short dry season of January and February. From March to May is the long rainy season, which is when I visited. Although I dealt with a lot of rain, I also dealt with fewer crowds and lower prices. The rains vary wildly, and there were only a few days where it really felt like my plans were thwarted by the weather. I even got four full days of sunshine during the Mount Kenya trek, an extreme stroke of good luck in the midst of the long rainy season.
All in all, it's up to what your priorities are. I hope one day to visit Kenya during the Great Migration, but my budget only allowed for some wet and muddy adventures.
Travel Insurance for Kenya
While Kenya is generally safe, there are some problem areas and it's always a good idea just to have travel insurance while you're off adventuring across the world. You'll be dealing with poorly-maintained roads at the very least, and high-altitude hiking, water activities, and other adrenaline-inducing adventures that I'd recommend having travel insurance for. I use SafetyWing to keep me covered throughout my travels for as low as $50 a month, and their coverage includes Kenya among the 190+ countries that they cover.
Currency and Cash Situation in Kenya
The currency of Kenya is the Kenyan Shilling. USD is also frequently accepted, especially for entry fees at national parks. Credit cards are widely-used in the big cities, and cash is king in the more rural towns and villages. As with most other countries, the struggle for small bills is real. Most ATMs give out bills in 1000 shilling denominations, and you'll quickly come to find no one is willing to part with their small bills for change. Diamond Trust Bank did occasionally give me small bills, and they also don't charge any ATM or withdrawal fees. I'd recommend using them when available. If you need U.S. dollars, I&M Bank is a good option that dispenses $100 bills.
Now, let's talk about M-Pesa, the almost universally accepted payment method in Kenya. I did not use M-Pesa during my time in Kenya. "Why? Do you enjoy suffering?" is what the hostel owner in Nairobi told me when I told her I went my entire month in Kenya without it. Unfortunately, my phone did not have a physical SIM card slot, so I couldn't get a Safaricom SIM and set up MPesa. I don't fully know how it works, but it allows people to just pay for things by transferring money between MPesa accounts. Almost everyone in Kenya uses Mpesa, and it makes it easy to travel without lugging around loads of cash. Here's a full guide on how MPesa works.
Getting a SIM Card in Kenya
Getting a SIM Card for Kenya is easy and affordable, and I'd highly recommend doing so. Cell service is reliable throughout the country. You'll also need a SIM Card to set up Mpesa, the system of payment widely used throughout Kenya, even in the tiniest of villages. Safaricom is the best option for getting a SIM Card and setting up Mpesa. You can also apparently get a Safaricom eSIM card, although I didn't know about this option before purchasing an Airalo SIM for Kenya. If you end up using an eSIM like Airalo, you can use code ELIJAH933 for $3 off your first eSIM.
Languages and the Language Barrier in Kenya
Can you get by in Kenya without speaking Swahili? Absolutely. English is widely spoken in Kenya, although knowing a little bit of Swahili will help for the more remote destinations. All in all, I had no issue getting around with just English. My Swahili was as kidogo as it gets, but even trying to learn a little bit will go a long way in Kenya, even if it's just to show a little effort and that you're not like other wazungu.
Cultural Norms in Kenya
It's hard to say what norms are universally observed in Kenya, as it is a very diverse country with various cultures, tribes, and religions. Along the Kenyan coast, Islam is the predominant religion, and one must be sure to be respectful of that. Elsewhere, like Nairobi, there is a much more diverse mix of people and cultures. Everyone seems to get along, and overall, I don't think there are any extra precautions to take outside of common sense and respect.
Is Kenya Safe to Visit?
Like most countries, it varies by the region, but overall, I found traveling in Kenya to be pretty safe. I met lots of other solo travelers, including many solo female travelers, that have traveled the region with no issues. Nairobi is notorious for petty theft, and most people know not to have their phones out or visible where someone can easily snatch it. Mombasa has similar problems, and most locals will warn you to keep an eye out for street kids or hustlers. Avoid walking around at night, especially in poorly-lit neighborhoods and away from tourist areas.
There have been terrorist attacks in Kenya in the past, but it's rarely an issue these days. Wildlife can be a safety concern, so keep a safe distance. One can literally just be hiking and stumble into an elephant or a hippo. Just remember that wild animals can be territorial and don't get too close.
How To Travel From City to City in Kenya
What I've noticed as a backpacker in Kenya is that while there is decent infrastructure for traveling, a lot of that goes towards a more wealthy, luxurious style of travel. The travelers that visit Kenya are expected to have their own private cars or private drivers or simply fly everywhere. But that's not me, for better or worse. Not once did I ever see a fellow mzungu on a matatu or local bus.
The matatus are basically shared minivans that have certain routes within cities, but some also travel between cities. Akin to colectivos in Latin America or marshrutkas in the Caucasus countries, matatus are fairly straightforward and very affordable. The only downside is that you'll have to wait for them to fill up, which on less-traveled routes, can take quite a bit of time. Patience is a virtue while traveling in Kenya. I eventually got comfortable with matatus, but be warned that you certainly will stick out like a sore thumb. People in Kenya have been generally trustworthy and helpful, but it can be a struggle finding the right matatu and paying the right price. This was not a problem in the smaller towns, but in the big cities, it can be frustrating. Ask the hostel staff how much to expect to pay before embarking on the adventure.
Buses are also an option, although it was hard to find anything about timetables online. Instead of central bus stations, each bus company has their own office and terminal. You'll likely have to make the trip to the terminal a day or two before your bus to book the ticket. I used Tawakal for journeys along the coast, and Mash Poa for my journey from Nairobi to Kampala, Uganda. Coast is another option, although local friends have told me that they have an awful reputation for safety.
Kenya also has a rail system that can be a good option for traveling between cities. I only took it once from Mombasa to Nairobi but it was a great experience. It left on time and arrived on time. The train was comfortable and even had air-conditioning, which was much-needed after a few weeks on the sizzling Kenyan coast. I've heard that other trains and routes within the country don't have the same traits of timeliness and comfort, but if it gets you from point A to point B, a win is a win. For a more comprehensive guide on train travel in Kenya, look to the always reliable homie in seat 61.
Domestic flights within Kenya can also be affordable. Kenya Airways is the flagship carrier of the country, and JamboJet and SafariLink are two of the budget airlines that service Kenya. I only took one flight and that was from Nairobi to Lamu. Most destinations in Kenya can be reached easily by overland travel, so I'd only recommend flying if you have limited time to explore the country.
How To Travel Within a City in Kenya
Matatus, bodas, and tuk-tuks are the main forms of budget-friendly local transportation within a city. In large cities like Nairobi and Mombasa, they can be ordered through the Uber or Bolt app. You can hail them off the streets as well, but I'd recommend sticking to the apps if you can. In smaller towns, you'll find bodas and tuk-tuks roaming around and it's easy to flag them down. I've come to find it's pretty rare for foreigners to not drive everywhere, so if you're walking, quite a few people will stop and ask if you need a motorcycle.
Finding Hostels and Accommodation in Kenya
Similar to transportation, it often felt like finding accommodation in Kenya involved picking through countless places catering to a wealthier crowd. Even though there aren't too many hostels in Kenya, each one I stayed in was fantastic.
Hostels (Backpackers)
Hostels, or backpackers as they're more commonly referred to in Africa, can be found in most major destinations in Kenya. Typically, there are about two or three at every destination.
These are the hostels I'd recommend for each place I visited in Kenya.
Camping is also an option at many properties. Most of the hostels I mentioned above, aside from the cities, will allow you to bring your own tent and set up on their property for a small fee. Others will offer camping equipment rental, which will work out cheaper than dorms or rooms.
Sample Itinerary for a First-Time Traveler to Kenya
What are the best places to visit in Kenya? That's a tough question. Kenya has an overwhelming amount of things to do, and they vary so wildly that two travelers could have completely different itineraries. How does one choose between its multitude of national parks or beach towns along its coastline? While there are a ton of things to do in Kenya, these are the quintessential destinations that I think a first-time traveler to Kenya should have on their itinerary.
Start in Nairobi (2 Days)
As the capital and largest city of Kenya, there is no better place to start than in Nairobi. Find your footing here, getting a SIM card, withdrawing cash, and meeting fellow travelers at your hostel to pick their brains and get advice. There are also plenty of things to do in Nairobi, including a visit to Nairobi National Park and the Sheldrick Wildlife Trust to see baby elephants. The Giraffe Center can also be paired with a visit to Nairobi National Park.
In Nairobi itself, take a walking tour with Nai Nami for an intimate experience led by former street kids living homeless in Nairobi's downtown. Catch a nice view from the Convention Center, shop at the Maasai Markets, and take advantage of Nairobi's diverse culinary and nightlife scene. Roam through Karura Forest or the Arboretum, or just simply relax. Nairobi served as my home base for my adventures in Kenya, so I was content to lay low in between trips to the Masai Mara and Mount Kenya.
Go To Lake Naivasha (2 Days)
From Nairobi, take a matatu to Lake Naivasha. I'd recommend staying at Fisherman's Camp or Camp Carnelley's. Rent a bicycle and work your way up to Lake Oloiden and Hell's Gate National Park for a one-of-a-kind bicycle safari. If you're up for a hike, one can also hike through the gorges of Hell's Gate, or summit the nearby Mount Longonot. Take a boat ride around Lake Naivasha and visit Crescent Island if you have time.
Safari in Masai Mara (3 Days)
From Naivasha, head straight to the Masai Mara. You can organize this with your safari guide as Naivasha is en route from Nairobi to the Masai Mara and will save a few hours of travel time. As a budget backpacker, the cheapest tour you're likely to get would be just under $200 USD, plus the additional entrance fees of $100 USD per day. This will put you in one of the budget camps, likely Lenchada Camp.
The first day is mostly transportation to your camp outside of the Masai Mara, followed by a three-hour long game drive in the evening. The next day will be a full-day game drive, starting at 6 AM and lasting until sunset the same day. It will take you as far as the Tanzania border and the Mara River before heading back towards camp. I won't spoil any of the sights or what animals you're likely to see, but it is one heck of an experience.
Day three is just driving back to Nairobi, unless you've paid extra for a visit to a Maasai village or for a tour of Lake Naivasha.
Back to Nairobi (1 Day)
Welcome back to Nairobi. Spend the night here before taking the train to Mombasa. Check out Nairobi's nightlife, perhaps starting with a few drinks at The Alchemist, Nairobi Street Kitchen, or Gecko Cafe. Unseen is a good spot for drinks and rooftop vibes, and Black Samurai is where it's at for a late-night boogie.
The next day, head over to the SGR station. Keep in mind you should have your ticket booked a few days in advance, or even further out during high season. Take in the views of the national parks you pass along the way, and pray for clear skies to get a glimpse of Mount Kilimanjaro. If you opted to skip the Masai Mara, Voi and the Tsavo National Parks are a good alternative for a cheaper safari. You'll want to get off at Voi Station if you've got these in your sights.
Mombasa (1 Day)
While Mombasa is Kenya's second-largest city, I didn't find too much to do here. There are a few beaches to visit close to Mombasa, but you will be visiting even more beautiful beaches along the coast, so I wouldn't prioritize the beaches of Mombasa too much. The best thing to do is wander aimlessly around Mombasa Old Town and visit Fort Jesus. Mombasa's Old Town is beautiful and picturesque, perfect for photography and admiring the scenery. Pay a visit to Jahazi Cafe and the Imani Collective, close to Tulia Old Town Backpackers, a great hostel with an amazing view of the water.
Diani Beach (2 Days)
From Mombasa, head south towards Diani Beach, Kenya's most famous coastal destination. It is a big backpacker spot, mostly due to its party scene and long strip of white sand beach. I'd recommend staying here for two nights before working your way northwards along the coast. Head back to Mombasa and catch a northbound matatu or bus and hop off in Kilifi town.
Kilifi (3 Days)
Kilifi is a coastal town with two creeks and a long strip of oceanfront. This means there are no shortage of beaches and water activities. The vibe here is very laid-back and it is everything a backpacker could dream of. Go snorkeling at Kuruwitu, check out the Vuma Cliffs, and laze away at the hidden beach on Takaungu Creek that only appears at low tide. The nightlife here is more laid-back, but it's still fun. Watch sunset from Salty's and enjoy a few cocktails there before heading to Kusini Tavern, the local spot to dance the night away. Some nights, there will be mwanzele performances at some of the big bars, so ask around to see what's going on on any given night. Here's my full guide to visiting Kilifi.
Lamu Island (2 Days)
From Kilifi, I would head straight to Lamu, although some people also stop at Watamu and Malindi along the way. You can try to catch the bus while it's en route from Mombasa to Lamu, or head to Malindi and catch a bus from there. It'll drop you off at Mokowe and from there, you can hop on a local boat to take you to the jetty port at Lamu Old Town. I'd recommend staying here, although others opt for the quieter, more upscale Shela town along the beautiful white strip of beach.
Lamu is a fairly sleepy island, but it's a great place to relax. Here's my full guide to visiting Lamu Island.
After Lamu, I'd recommend flying back to Nairobi to finish your trip or continue to your next destination. There are daily departures and flights cost around $70-100 USD. Otherwise, retrace your steps and undertake the long journey back to Nairobi by land.
Finish Trip or Hike Mount Kenya
If there's one way to end your Kenya trip with a bang, it is the trek to the summit of Mount Kenya. It is my favorite thing I did in Kenya. The sheer variety of landscapes you'll encounter on the trek makes Kenya one of the most naturally beautiful countries I've been to. Snow-capped peaks, turquoise lakes, vast meadows of unique plants, jagged canyons, and so much more await on the journey to Kenya's tallest peak.
Most trekkers will hike to Lenana Peak, the third-highest of Mount Kenya's peaks, and the tallest that doesn't require any special equipment or mountaineering experience to summit. The route I took was Sirimon to the summit, and then Chogoria on the way down. Both are breathtakingly beautiful, so try to ensure that this is the route you'll be taking.
I booked my trek through my hostel in Nairobi, Jabulani Backpackers, and paid $550 for the 4-day trek. Everything was included in the cost, aside from any tips you'd like to give the guides and porters. All in all, I thought it was a fair price, and actually a bit cheaper than the usual estimates of $600-800 that I read online. I think it's also possible to go to Nanyuki yourself and try to find a guide or agency there and do it for cheaper. It's seriously one of the most incredible treks I've ever done and if you're up for the challenge, there is no better way to end your time in Kenya than to be the highest person in the entire country for a bit.
Closing Thoughts on Kenya
Kenya is a beautiful country in so many ways, from its varied landscapes and wildlife to its fun-loving and friendly people. I knew that solo backpacking in Africa would be a different challenge than any I'd taken on before, but Kenya was a perfect way to dip my toes in before fully diving into the less-traveled countries of East Africa and beyond. I can't recommend Kenya enough for the more adventurous traveler looking for a destination that will simply make you feel alive. From swimming with bioluminescent plankton, to cruising through the vast savannahs of the Mara, to navigating the snowy rockfall en route to the summit of Mount Kenya, the adventures I had here were priceless and unforgettable.
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