There are few words to appropriately describe Sossusvlei. As soon as I reached the top of the Big Daddy dune, I decided that the word "otherworldly" will no longer be a part of my vocabulary unless specifically referring to places that made my jaw drop like Sossusvlei did. I've seen some cool stuff on this planet, but Sossusvlei hardly seemed like it was from this planet at all. Its surreal landscapes evoked imagery from those desert planets in epic Sci-Fi movies, like Arrakis from Dune or Tatooine from Star Wars. Sossusvlei is breathtakingly beautiful, and in every sense of the word, otherworldly.
And to think, I almost skipped it. Solo traveling in Namibia on a budget can be very limiting. Without fellow travelers to split the costs of renting a car, most people resort to over-priced guided tours. The cheapest I saw were between $450 to $500 USD for a 3-day camping excursion, with a large chunk of that time being transportation. I was prepared to save Sossusvlei for a future trip altogether, but as I was scouring the internet for a last-gasp Hail Mary, I saw an opening and started putting some puzzle pieces together.
Not all the puzzle pieces fit perfectly, and it took significantly more effort than just hopping on a guided tour, but it was one of the greatest adventures I've ever been on. Difficult as it may have been, Sossusvlei can be done as a solo traveler on a budget. Here's how.
And hey, if this post helps you out, show some love and support for the blog and help keep my adventures going by buying me a beer! My adventures are entirely self-funded, so any show of support is greatly appreciated. It allows me to keep providing free travel guides and creating travel content to help you all travel the world.
This post contains affiliate links. That means that I may earn a commission if you make a purchase through one of these links
Table of Contents
How To Get To Sossusvlei Without A Car
As a solo traveler, the most difficult thing about traveling in Namibia is simply the nonexistence of public transportation options. Going to the bus station and hopping on a cheap bus to the next destination is just not a possibility here. Hell, I needed six different modes of transportation to get to Windhoek from Botswana. That certainly set the tone that Namibia was going to be a challenge.
There aren't really buses, but there are privately-owned shuttles that make their rounds throughout the country. These shuttles aren't the cheapest, but if renting a car or hitchhiking isn't an option, it's really the only way you can make the trip to Sossusvlei happen.
The closest settlement to Sossusvlei is the "town" of Sesriem, if you can even call it a town. Book a shuttle with Go2 Travel from Windhoek or Swakopmund to Sesriem. As far as I know, they are the only shuttle that operates this route. Other companies might require you to book a private transfer. The price was 790 NAD for a one-way trip. The shuttle departs from the Windhoek Truckport in the south of the city. The Go2 Travel shuttle leaves at 6 AM. Arrange for a taxi to take you there in the morning, or bank on the Yango app having drivers awake that early. There is a Spar supermarket at the Truckport. Stock up on groceries and anything else you'll need before heading out.
The journey begins with an hour of driving on tarred highway before veering onto bumpy dirt roads for the final couple of hours. Luckily, the breathtaking scenery will distract you from getting manhandled by the roads. The shuttle makes a stop at the settlement of Solitaire, which consists of a gas station, a small church, and a couple of restaurants. Take some time to stretch your legs, grab a snack, and snap some photos straight out of the Wild, Wild West.
From Solitaire, it's another hour to Sesriem, which thankfully goes back to a tarred road for the final stretch. The shuttle will drop you off at the Engen gas station, also known as the Oasis. I was the only traveler on my shuttle, so I do believe they will operate with just one passenger. I felt bad because the driver didn't have anyone riding back from Sesriem to Windhoek either, so I basically had a private shuttle. But the shuttle is operated by the same company that owns like half the lodges in Namibia, so I didn't feel too, too bad. I bought him lunch at the gas station anyway, and then strapped on my backpacks and began the walk to my campsite.
Oh, and before you go, it's always a good idea just to have travel insurance while you're off adventuring across the world. I use SafetyWing to keep me covered throughout my travels for as low as $45 a month, and their coverage includes Namibia among the 190+ countries that they cover.
Where To Stay When Visiting Sossusvlei
Essential for sticking to a budget is having a tent. I was not traveling with my own tent but I managed to rent one in Windhoek. They were closed on the weekends, so I basically had to beg them to open for a 10-minute window on a Sunday morning so that I could continue forward with my plans. I reached out to Adventure Camping Hire via WhatsApp and arranged to meet them. I rented a tent, sleeping bag, and a sleeping mat for 570 NAD ($32 USD) to rent the equipment for three days. The tent could have easily fit three people, so if you have friends to split the cost with, this could be much cheaper.
Once you've got your tent, you're good to book a camping spot. Without a tent, the cost to do this trip solo increases drastically. A lodge will cost you a minimum of $100 a night, and based on availability, you might have to resort to spending $300 or more for a room. Campsites also get booked out pretty quickly. Reserve a spot as soon as you know your dates. Since I scrambled to put this trip together only two days before departure, I had to split my time at a campsite and a lodge due to availability.
The first place I stayed was NWR Sesriem Camp. Sesriem Camp is a budget-friendly option with campsites starting at about $N 490. It came with space to park a car, set up a couple of tents, and even came with a braai should you want to grill something up for dinner. The campsites aren't well-shaded, so most people hang out in the common areas during the day if they're not out adventuring. Sesriem Camp is well-equipped with a restaurant, bar, small shop, plenty of restrooms, showers, and even a swimming pool. It kind of shocked me that we were in the middle of the desert yet every place just somehow had a pool.
If you plan on camping, I can't recommend Sesriem Camp enough. There are a couple of other campsites in Sesriem, but I can only speak for Sesriem Camp. Sossus Oasis Camp is right next to the gas station, but is more basic. It has only 8 camping spots so it is usually booked pretty far in advance. There is also the Sesriem Oshana Camp located inside the gate, but I don't know too much about this one.
There are a number of lodges to stay at if you don't want to camp. Sossusvlei Lodge is the main establishment in town but is well out of reasonable range if you want to stay on a backpacker's budget. Rooms started at around $300 USD for the cheapest room, and somehow they were still fully booked when I rolled into town. And low-key, I don't think it was anywhere near nice enough to justify the cost.
I ended up having to stay at Desert Quiver Camp for one night because all the campsites in Sesriem were fully booked. Desert Quiver is a nice lodge that isn't too expensive, but it is about 5 kilometers outside of Sesriem town. Without your own transportation, you'll have to pay the 75 NAD taxi fee to and from town. I paid 2100 NAD ($116 USD) for a room, and I wasn't even mad about it. The cabin was really nice and came fully-equipped with everything you'd need. They also had a lovely pool overlooking the endless desert. Although way out of my usual budget, it was an incredible place to stay. Star-gazing under the clear skies was the perfect closure to a chaotic chapter of trying to put together this last-minute desert excursion.
How To Visit The Sossusvlei Desert From Sesriem Without A Car
Getting to Sesriem is straightforward enough, but getting to Sossusvlei without a car hinges on the impossible. Sossusvlei is an additional 60 kilometers from Sesriem. The only way to get here without a car is by hopping on a guided tour. It's also possible to befriend someone at your campsite or lodge that has a car. I met a few solo travelers at Sesriem Camp who seemed willing to take on the journey together had I asked, but at that point, I had already paid for the tour. If you want to guarantee visiting Sossusvlei, you'll have to do the guided tour.
Book a tour with Sossusvlei Adventure Center located in Sossusvlei Lodge. This cost 1050 NAD, or about $60 USD. There's an extra fee for the brunch if you aren't a guest at the Sossusvlei Lodge. This was an additional 165 NAD. The tour begins early, leaving the lodge at 7 AM and wrapping up at around 1 in the afternoon. It hits most of the highlights, and overall, for its price and length, I think it was fantastic value.
I emailed them a few days before arriving in Sesriem to guarantee that I'd have a spot on the tour. I walked over to their office at Sossusvlei Lodge the day before to pay. The team was very helpful and happy to organize everything for me, including their sunset game drive and transfers to and from town from their sister lodge at Desert Quiver Camp.
Other Budget Travel Tips for Sossusvlei
After transportation, accommodation, and excursions, the last factor that could eat into your budget would be food. Being in the desert with few dining options, you can imagine that eating at the lodges' restaurants can be quite expensive. I remember inquiring about dinner at Desert Quiver Camp, before deciding against the $25 meal and resentfully eating my final bag of peanuts.
If you hope to stick to a budget, the Oasis will be your best friend. I ended up eating a couple of their $2 sandwiches per day. They'll fill you up, and you can't beat them in terms of bang for your buck. The Oasis offers plenty of other groceries, too, but the extent of their ready-to-eat meals are basically sandwiches and pies. The prices won't be as cheap as in Windhoek or Swakopmund, which is why I'd recommend stocking up on groceries and snacks before heading to Sesriem.
Highlights of Sossusvlei
Deadvlei
Arguably the most iconic of Namibia's destinations is Deadvlei. You've undoubtedly seen pictures of its surreal landscapes before, with its dried salt pans flanked by towering dunes and littered with blackened camelthorn trees.
Big Daddy
Big Daddy is the largest dune in Sossusvlei and is not to be taken lightly. At 350 meters tall, it is a monster. If you've ever hiked on sand before, you know just how difficult it can be. Pay no attention to how easy the oryxes make it look.
Dune 45
Dune 45 is a popular dune because it can be easily accessed from the Sossusvlei highway. It's got a parking lot, bathrooms, and shade. It is absolute stunning in the morning and late afternoon light when the sun plays with the shadows of the dunes. If you have time, it's a popular dune to hike. It's called Dune 45 because it's on the 45th kilometer of the Sossusvlei highway, putting it about 15 kilometers short from the main Sossusvlei and Deadvlei area. The views are beautiful from the top, and a little different than what you'd get from Big Daddy.
Big Mama
As its name suggests, Big Mama is Big Daddy's partner. It's yet another monstrous sand dune that is popular amongst people who hate themselves and want their legs to suffer. I did not climb this one, but we did have our cute little brunch in the shade of a tree with perfect views of this stunning dune.
Dune 1
As its name suggests, Dune 1 is located in the first kilometer of the Sossusvlei highway. It's your introduction to the stunning dunes of Sossusvlei. We stopped here for sunrise, and our first glimpse of the vast Namib Desert.
You are fairly limited in what you can visit in Sossusvlei without your own car. The places mentioned above were the places I was able to visit with Sossusvlei Lodge's tour. Even then, we only got to see Dune 45 and Big Mama without having time to climb them. I was totally okay with that, as my legs were wiped out after Big Daddy.
Without a car, there are a few other places that can be visited with a tour from Sossusvlei Adventure Center.
Elim Dune
The tour offered for Elim Dune is a sunrise walk. The early morning lighting is stunning, but the highlight is the chance to spot small desert wildlife. An experienced guide will help you spot tracks from little desert critters.
Sesriem Canyon
Located outside of Sossusvlei park, Sesriem Canyon is a slot canyon popular among hikers, particularly at sunset. I didn't get to visit Sesriem Canyon, but Sossusvlei Adventure Centre also offers sunset tours of Sesriem Canyon among their other activities.
Sunset Game Drive with Sossusvlei Lodge
Aside from visiting Sossusvlei itself, this was the only other activity I did in the area. It only cost about $22, and included a light dinner and drinks. You just cruise through the desert for about two hours, spotting wildlife like oryx, zebras, ostriches, and potentially hyenas if you're lucky. My guide even said he saw his first-ever aardwolf the night after I went. The landscapes are stunning, and it's a good, budget-friendly activity if you're looking for something to fill your time in Sesriem.
Overall, my chaotic adventure to Sossusvlei is among my favorite experiences on my equally-chaotic African backpacking journey. Giving yourself more time to plan and make reservations in advance will make this significantly less stressful, but even for a last-minute budget backpacker, it's still doable. Seriously, it's worth it. Don't miss out on this one-of-a-kind destination.
Buy Me A Beer!
If this post helped you out, show some love and support for the blog and help keep my adventures going by buying me a beer! My adventures are entirely self-funded, so any show of support is greatly appreciated, and allows me to keep writing helpful travel guides and creating travel content to help you all travel the world on a budget.
No comments:
Post a Comment